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Try to protect any jewelry from scratches, sharp blows,
harsh chemicals, extreme temperatures and sunlight. Store
jewelry separately so it doesn't scratch other jewelry. When
doing household tasks such as gardening and cleaning, be
certain to remove rings. Put your jewelry on after washing
and applying any makeup/hair spray. Never wear jewelry while
swimming in a swimming pool. The chlorine can cause damage
to various gemstones and gold. Gemstones may become loose in
their settings (and possibly fall out). Avoid storing your
jewelry next to a heating vent, window sill or on a car
dashboard. Store jewelry away from sunlight as the sun may
fade the gemstones.
Always store bead necklaces (such as lapis, pearls, etc)
flat as silk stretches over time. Hardness is based on a
gem-trade standard called the Mohs scale. The higher the
Mohs scale number, the harder the stone is. The highest Mohs
scale rating is 10 (diamonds). Anything with a Mohs scale
rating of less than 7 is easily scratched (such as coral,
lapis lazuli, opal, pearl, and turquoise). Gold, silver, and
platinum are only Mohs 2-1/2 to 4. Always carefully store
any fine jewelry.
Be certain that stones mounted in rings are not loose or
rattle. The prongs of a ring can and do wear down. If the
prongs wear down too much or break, you've lost the stone.
Prongs are easily "retipped" by most jewelers to
keep the stone secure.
Common stones that are damaged in sunlight (there may be
more):
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Amethyst:
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becomes
paler
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Ametrine:
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may
change color
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Apatite:
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pink
variety fades
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Aquamarine:
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becomes
paler
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Aventurine:
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translucent
types often lose color
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Beryl:
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brown or
orange types may change to pale pink
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Celestite:
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fades in
direct sunlight
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Chrysoprase:
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becomes
paler
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Citrine:
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may
change color
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Fluorite:
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green
and purple types change color
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Kunzite:
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becomes
pale or loses color
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Rose
Quartz:
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becomes
paler
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Smokey
Quartz:
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becomes
paler
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If
you have bead necklaces such as lapis or pearls, store them
flat as silk stretches over time. Most jewelers will
restring necklaces or reset stones (for a fee).
Sterling silver will polish up by rubbing or buffing it with
a soft cotton cloth or a Sunshine Cloth. If you store silver
in plastic bags with an interlocking seal, it will be less
prone to tarnish. (Do NOT store pearls in plastic bags!)
Surprisingly
very few and comparatively inexpensive hand tools are
required to do successful jewelry work. It is good economy
and safe practice to purchase a tool of high quality.
Basic Tools
We present a thorough description of tools suggested for
doing successful craft work.
Jewellers saw frame, 2 1/4' or 4" depth
Hand shears (Brown's), 6" for cutting solder
Flat nose plier, smooth jaws, 5"
Round nose plier, 5"
Divider, steel, 3"
Ring clamp
Scriber
Riveting or ball peen hammer, 7 or 8 ounce
Files, Swiss pattern, 6", 0 and 2 cut, one each, hand,
half-round, three square
Files, needle, 16-centimeter length, one set Ring mandrel,
graduated
Tweezer, 5", pointed
Tweezer, cross lock type
Emery stick
Professional Kit
For a professional jeweler's working, kit add these tools to
above mentioned basic tools.
Flat nose plier, 5", "Bernard" type
Spring gauge, lignes
Plate shears, 1 1/2" blade, 7" long
End nippers and side nippers
Ring sizes
Chain or snipe nose plier, 5"
Engraving tools, onglette, flat lozenge, round
Eye loupe, 3" or 4" focus
Ring stick
Pin vise
Additional Tools
The following may be added as the need arises:
Pliers, half-round
Draw plates
B.& S. guage
Burnisher, curved or straight
Engraving block
Tinner's hand shear
Draw tongs
A small metal tool Box or fishing tackle box can be
purchased to store and carry jewelry making tools. Plastic
boxes should be obtained to keep findings, solder,
gemstones, and fillings.
Equipment
Work Bench
Work bench is a typical jeweler's bench used
professionally. It has a tray to catch filings and small
pieces of metal, the sliding armrest and the bench pin. The
better benches have a hard wood (usually maple) top and a
sliding tray of galvanized iron. It should be as near to a
window as possible for proper
light. It is best to use a low chair or stool (14"
high) when working at the bench. In addition to a jeweler's
workbench, a jeweler should try to acquire a metalworking
bench for heavy work, which has provision to mount a vise,
drill press, stakes, and a surface plate, & should be at
least two inches thick. The
height of an average metalworking bench is three feet’s;
it should be firmly attached to the floor. Good lighting is
essential for jewelry making. You can
acquire a fixed or adjustable fluorescent & incandescent
lamp.
Magnifier
For making very fine jewelry, it is essential to wear a
clip-on magnifier, which can be attached to regular glasses,
or a headband magnifier, which is available with
interchangeable lenses, or to use an eyeglass loupe, or an
eye loupe.
Combination Bench pin and anvil
The combination bench pin and anvil for sawing, filing,
and light hammering is recommended to craftsmen who do not
have a regular jeweler's workbench.
Bench Block
A 2 1/2" X 2 21/2" hardened steel bench block
about 1" thick is very desirable for flattening,
forgoing and stamping metals.
Bench Anvil
A small jeweler's anvil is handy for shaping and
stretching bezel settings, and for forging thin wires.
Bench Vise
A 3" or larger jawed bench vise mounted on a
utility or metalsmithing bench can be used for sawing,
filing and stone settings.
Flexible Shaft
It is used for drilling, setting, polishing, etc. The
outfit is either suspended from the jeweler's bench, a wall,
or the ceiling. There are several types of chucks available
for the flexible shaft, which can accommodate various sizes
of
drills, burs, grinding stones, and polishing buffs.
Drill Press
A small high-speed drill press controlled by a foot
rheostat is excellent for drilling small, accurately placed
holes.
Polishing
Any electric motor can be converted into a buffing
machine by attaching a tapered spindle. a double shafted 1/3
horse power motor is preferred for craftsmen.
Rolling Mill
A rolling mill is indispensable for professional work.
Flat mill can reduce the thickness of sheet metal, the
square can form square bars, which can be flattened into
strips or drawn into wire. With a mill, filings and small
pieces of
metal can be melted and easily rolled into sheet of wire.
Bench Shear
The bench shear is used for cutting metals up to
3/16" thick.
Jeweler's balance
The balance, or scale is ideal for weighing gold and
silver: Platinum and diamonds are more sensitive, glass
enclosed balances are available that have sensitivity of
1/200 of a carat. Many jewelry manufacturers use electronic
digital scale to weigh metal, castings, or finished jewelry.
Soldering Equipment
The purpose of soldering equipment is to provide a
clean, hot flame quickly and inexpensively for rapid
soldering. Since soldering is ver important in jewelry work.
Plumber's Torch
A plumber's torch using white, unleaded gasoline can be
used for jewelry soldering.
Soldering Area
A soldering area can either be made or purchased for
soldering and annealing.
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